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Alpamayo (5947 m) is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world! Its southwest face is crossed by several canaletas, steep ice corridors with often bizarre architecture due to the particular snow and wind conditions of this equatorial area. One of these canaletas is followed by the historic Ferrari route, first climbed in 1975 by the Ragni di Lecco; the other great classic is the French Direct of 1993, technically more demanding than the Ferrari but today the only one still used, due to frequent ice falls that often affect the other.
Alpamayo is located in the Ancash region, the highest tropical mountain range in the world, which stretches for about 180 km north–south and forms a natural dividing barrier between the western and eastern slopes of the Andes.
This trip is dedicated to mountaineers with sufficient experience both in glacier progression and in piolet traction technique: after an acclimatization period that allows visits to some of the most beautiful high-altitude lagoons surrounding the town of Huaraz, the ascent to the summit of Vallunaraju (5686 m) will be undertaken, which will not only allow us to climb a beautiful peak but also to perfect our fitness. Finally, the ascent of Alpamayo — with difficulties ranging between 55° and 80° along a face of about 500 meters of elevation gain — will fulfill the dream of climbing one of the most spectacular summits in the world.
This program will be accompanied by a trusted Peruvian UIAGM Alpine Guide.
Those who wish to climb Alpamayo with an Italian Snowder Alpine Guide may request a personalized quote.
Travel program
Day 1: Departure from Italy with international flight.
Day 2: Arrival in Lima, transfer with domestic flight to Huaraz, visit of the town, free dinner and overnight stay in hotel.
Day 3: Acclimatization day with excursion to the Churup and Churupita lagoons (about 4700 meters); these Andean lagoons are located east of the city of Huaraz and are among the most popular excursions due to their beauty. After a short transfer by private bus from Huaraz, you reach the picturesque village of Pitec, from where the trail begins. In about 3 hours you reach Laguna Churup; in another hour, skirting the lake, you reach the second lagoon, splendid and nestled among moraines and rock walls. In the afternoon return to Huaraz and free dinner.
Day 4: After breakfast, departure from Huaraz by private bus to Laguna Llaca — where the Vallunaraju base camp is located; from here, in about two and a half hours, you reach Campo Morena, at 4940 meters, where we will spend the night in tents. Dinner and overnight stay.
Day 5: Ascent to the summit of Vallunaraju, with departure very early at night: after a section on moraines and rocky slabs, you step onto the glacier, which is followed without particular difficulty up to the bifid summit of Valluna. Descent to Campo Morena and then to the base camp, with return to Huaraz in the afternoon. Free dinner and overnight stay in hotel.
Day 6: Rest day in Huaraz with possible tourist visit to the Pre-Inca Temple of Chavin; free dinner and overnight stay in hotel.
Day 7: The Alpamayo expedition begins! After breakfast, departure from Huaraz and transfer by private bus to Caraz and then to Cashapampa, from where a comfortable trail leads in 4–5 hours to the Llamacorral camp (3760 m). Dinner and overnight stay.
Day 8: After breakfast, departure from the camp to reach the Alpamayo Base Camp in 6 hours; during the trek you will pass along the Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha lagoons, with views of Nevados Taulliraju, Quitaraju, Artesonraju, Pucajircas, and Alpamayo.
Day 9: Ascent to High Camp; after breakfast, departure from base camp to first cross a wide moraine and then enter the glacier, which will be traversed roped up, finally reaching High Camp in about 7 hours. Overnight stay here.
Day 10: Departure at 1 a.m. from camp to climb to the summit along the French Direct Route; return to High Camp along the same itinerary, dinner and overnight stay.
Day 11: Descent to Base Camp along the same route as the ascent. Dinner and overnight stay.
Day 12: Departure after breakfast and descent through the Quebrada Arhuaycocha, then continuing along the entire Santa Cruz Valley to the village of Cashapampa (about 7 hours). Transfer to Huaraz by private bus.
Day 13: Reserve day to cover any delays in the program or to take an additional excursion in the Huaraz area (for example to Laguna 69).
Day 14: In the morning, return flight to Lima, from where in the evening departure for Italy with international flight.
Day 15: Arrival in Italy.
Is it for me?
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LEGEND: based on our personal experience, the evaluations give a subjective, measured and highly reliable value of the elements that make up the travel experience.
Other informations
Duration
14 days / 13 nights
Guaranteed departure
Minimum 2 partecipants
Documents
Passport valid for at least six months
The participation fee includes
- Accompaniment by an Italian UIAGM Alpine Guide
- Team of porters, pack animals, professional cook
- All transportation with private bus from/to Huaraz to the various destinations
- Porters for the High Camp
- Full-board meals during the expedition days
- Two-person tent (one for every two people)
- Kitchen tent and dining tent with table and chairs; bathroom tent
- Complete kitchen equipment, plates and utensils
- Collective mountaineering equipment (ropes, ice screws, etc.)
- First aid kit
- Assistance throughout the entire expedition period by our partner agency in Huaraz
Price per person
from € 2690
Deposit of € 673
Payment Methods and Cancellation PolicyDeparture
- 1 - 14 July 2026 Proceed with registration
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