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Alpamayo (5947 m) is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world! Its South-West face is carved by various "canaletas" — steep ice corridors with often bizarre architecture due to the peculiarities of snow and winds in this equatorial zone. One of these canaletas is followed by the historic Ferrari route, first climbed in 1975 by the Ragni di Lecco; the other great classic is the French Direct from '93, technically more demanding than the Ferrari but currently the only one being climbed due to the frequent ice avalanches that often affect the other
Alpamayo is located in the Ancash region, the highest tropical mountain range in the world, which extends for about 180 km in a north-south direction and forms a natural dividing barrier between the western and eastern slopes of the Andes
This trip is dedicated to mountaineers with sufficient experience in both glacier progression and piolet traction technique: after an acclimatization period that allows you to visit some of the most beautiful high-altitude lagoons surrounding the town of Huaraz, you will make the ascent to the summit of Vallunaraju (5686 m), which will allow us — in addition to climbing a beautiful peak — to perfect our fitness level. Finally, the ascent to Alpamayo — which presents difficulties between 55° and 80° along a wall of about 500 meters of elevation gain — will fulfill the dream of climbing one of the most spectacular peaks in the world
This program will be accompanied by a trusted Peruvian UIAGM Alpine Guide
Those who wish to climb Alpamayo with an Italian Snowder Alpine Guide can request a personalized quote
Travel program
Day 1: Departure from Italy with international flight
Day 2: Arrival in Lima, transfer with domestic flight to Huaraz, visit of the town, free dinner and overnight stay in hotel
Day 3: Acclimatization day with excursion to the Churup and Churupita lagoons (about 4700 meters); these Andean lagoons are located east of the city of Huaraz and are among the most popular excursions due to their beauty. After a short transfer by private bus from Huaraz, you reach the picturesque village of Pitec, from where the trail begins. In about 3 hours you reach Laguna Churup; in another hour, skirting the lake, you reach the second lagoon, splendid and nestled among moraines and rock walls. In the afternoon return to Huaraz and free dinner
Day 4: After breakfast, departure from Huaraz by private bus to Laguna Llaca — where the Vallunaraju base camp is located; from here, in about two and a half hours, you reach Campo Morena, at 4940 meters, where we will spend the night in tents. Dinner and overnight stay
Day 5: Ascent to the summit of Vallunaraju, with departure very early at night: after a section on moraines and rocky slabs, you step onto the glacier, which is followed without particular difficulty up to the bifid summit of Valluna. Descent to Campo Morena and then to the base camp, with return to Huaraz in the afternoon. Free dinner and overnight stay in hotel
Day 6: Rest day in Huaraz with possible tourist visit to the Pre-Inca Temple of Chavin; free dinner and overnight stay in hotel
Day 7: The Alpamayo expedition begins! After breakfast, departure from Huaraz and transfer by private bus to Caraz and then to Cashapampa, from where an easy trail leads in 4-5 hours to the Llamacorral camp (3760 m). Dinner and overnight stay
Day 8: After breakfast, departure from the camp to reach the Alpamayo Base Camp in 6 hours; during the trek you will pass by the Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha lagoons, and you will be able to admire the Nevados Taulliraju, Quitaraju, Artesonraju, Pucajircas, and Alpamayo
Day 9: Ascent to the High Camp; after breakfast, departure from the base camp to first cross a vast moraine and then enter the glacier, which will be traversed roped up, finally reaching the High Camp in about 7 hours. We will spend the night here
Day 10: Departure at 1:00 AM from the camp to make the ascent to the summit along the French Direct Route; return to the High Camp along the same route, dinner and overnight stay
Day 11: Descent to the Base Camp along the same route as the ascent. Dinner and overnight stay
Day 12: Departure after breakfast and descent through the Quebrada Arhuaycocha, then following the entire Santa Cruz Valley to the village of Cashapampa (about 7 hours). Transfer to Huaraz by private bus
Day 13: Reserve day to make up for any delays in the program or to make an additional excursion in the Huaraz area (for example to Laguna 69)
Day 14: In the morning, return flight to Lima, from where in the evening departure for Italy with international flight
Day 15: Arrival in Italy
Is it for me?
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LEGEND: based on our personal experience, the evaluations give a subjective, measured and highly reliable value of the elements that make up the travel experience.
Other informations
Duration
15 days / 14 nights
Guaranteed departure
Minimum 2 partecipants
Documents
Passport valid for at least six months
The participation fee includes
- Accompaniment by an Italian UIAGM Alpine Guide
- Team of porters, pack animals, professional cook
- All transportation with private bus from/to Huaraz to the various destinations
- Porters for the High Camp
- Full-board meals during the expedition days
- Two-person tent (one for every two people)
- Kitchen tent and dining tent with table and chairs; bathroom tent
- Complete kitchen equipment, plates and utensils
- Collective mountaineering equipment (ropes, ice screws, etc.)
- First aid kit
- Assistance throughout the entire expedition period by our partner agency in Huaraz
Price per person
from € 2690
Deposit of € 673
Payment Methods and Cancellation PolicyDeparture
- 24 July - 7 August 2027 Proceed with registration
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