Five days exploring the pristine slopes of Valle Stura di Demonte

Five days exploring the snow-covered slopes of Valle Stura di Demonte
Maritime Alps

February 27 – March 4, 2026

Day One

After meeting our French clients at Hotel Ligure in Vinadio, we drive to Grange, just above the village of Argentera. We put on our skis and cross the ford that gives access to Vallone del Puriac, then climb the beautiful east-facing slopes leading to Colle dell’Enclausetta, near the French border; once we reach the summit of the same name, we take some time to snap a few photos, then identify a descent line that’s still untouched.

The unusually warm temperatures for the season allow us to ski the steep terrain on spring snow.

After the tour, we enjoy a beer on the terrace of Bar Passaggio Alpino in Bersezio. Back at the hotel, a hearty dinner featuring local specialties – cruset and sambucano lamb – rounds off the day perfectly.

Day Two

We wake up to a gray and gloomy sky, so we take it easy and enjoy a generous buffet breakfast. Refreshed, we drive to Bergemolo, where we start walking on skis first toward Bergemoletto and then toward Testa del Fontanile, a less frequented route with a beautiful larch forest in the upper section that allows skiing even in unfavorable weather conditions. Once we reach the summit after 1,000 meters of elevation gain, we enjoy a descent in fresh snow on very steep terrain. After the tour, a snack at Centro Fondo in Aisone, an aperitif at Revelin Bistrot in Vinadio, and dinner – as always featuring local specialties – at Hotel Ligure in Vinadio crown the day.

Day Three

Yesterday’s bad weather deposited ten to twenty centimeters of fresh snow on the valley’s peaks. We take advantage of the clear window forecast for the morning to drive to Villaggio Primavera, then venture on skis into the long, splendid Vallone di Forneris.

After following the entire trail leading toward the head of the valley, we climb the steep larch forest that gives access to the upper slopes. The view of Rocca Reis, Cima del Bal, Colle di Stau, and Testa del Ferro is magnificent, the larches are laden with snow, and the peaks have a more severe appearance than usual.

We follow the entire valley floor until we reach first Colle del Ferro and then Testa del Ferro. At the top, the snow cover is more abundant than we expected, with about thirty centimeters of fresh snow.

The descent is memorable and the group’s morale is sky-high. After the tour, we head straight to Oste d’Oc in Pietraporzio to enjoy Giovanni Mozzi’s excellent cuisine.

Day Four

The forecast announces a beautiful day. We take advantage of it to explore Vallone di Bagni di Vinadio. Using the snowmobile of Remo Degioanni, a local mountain guide, we reach the village of Callieri in tow. From here we climb through the dense forest along Vallone di Tesina to the beautiful plateau with panoramic views of Cima di Tesina, Rocche di Saboulè, and Testa della Guercia.

Keeping to the left of the valley, we climb up to Rocche di Saboulè where, given the wonderful conditions, we decide to undertake a descent on the east face. There’s no trace of previous passages and we’re the only ski tourers around. The fresh snow illuminated by the sun gives us a dream descent of about 400 meters. We put the skins back on and return to Rocche di Saboulè to descend a couloir and then a valley on the northeast face. The initial section is a bit technical and steep, but once we get past it, the valley leaves us speechless. Our clients shout with joy at every turn. A perfect day.

Once we reach the valley floor, the superlative conditions push us to tackle another climb toward Serriera di Pignal. Having reached Colletto dei Camosci, we descend into Vallone della Sauma, where the wind has accumulated more snow than what we found on the slopes where we just skied. Thirty centimeters of fresh snow and no tracks for an unforgettable descent. Once we reach the valley floor, we use the cross-country trail to return to Bagni di Vinadio, where ravioli al plin prepared by Trattoria La Tana, run by Remo, await us. To finish the day in style, we treat ourselves to a dip in the thermal water pools.

Day Five

The exceptional conditions characterized by stable snow cover and favorable weather, combined with a group of very skilled skiers, allow us to plan a different route than usual. The idea is to climb in Vallone di Bravaria up to Monte Le Steliere and ski along its north face, then enter Vallone del Binec, a loop tour with sustained slopes that for advanced ski tourers can be something special.

After a climb on hard snow and, in the final section, spring snow due to the east-facing exposure, we look out over the valley. The north-facing slopes seem not to have seen a single ski all winter. The snow is deep and, descending one at a time, we bring home one of the best ski runs of the season, which thrills our clients.

Once we reach Vallone del Binec, the slopes ease and with wide turns we finish our ski run at the edge of the forest, where a few meters of elevation gain with skis on our shoulders await us.

Our five-day adventure is over, we’re all happy, also because we had a blast, and we say goodbye promising to meet again soon to experience new adventures together.

Paolo Pernigotti