Capanna Margherita represents a kind of finis terrae for high-mountain enthusiasts, at least within the Alpine arc. It's certainly not a destination for everyone, but in reality, it's not that unreachable: it stands on the summit of Punta Gnifetti, at an altitude of 4,554 meters in the Monte Rosa Group, and is the highest mountain hut in Europe.
Inaugurated in 1893 and appropriately updated over time, today it also serves as a scientific observatory (since 2000 it has been home to the highest weather station in Europe) and is a true dream for many ski tourers and mountaineers.
But with the accompaniment of a mountain guide, the destination becomes absolutely achievable, at least for those who are well-trained and have some experience with ski touring.
The climb winds along a glacier that, after an initial section at the foot of the Vincent Pyramid, continues on gently sloping terrain, passing first Colle del Lys and then Colle Gnifetti, before tackling the final wall—often requiring crampons and an ice axe—to reach Punta Gnifetti, where Capanna Margherita is located.
The ascent involves, from Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m) where you stay overnight, climbing "just" 900 meters of elevation gain, but it reaches altitudes of over 4,000 meters. The descent—especially late in the season—is almost always on spectacular, smooth, and soft firn, offering top-notch skiing. Note: this is a 5-star culinary program given the excellent hospitality and food offered by the Capanna Gnifetti staff!!!
Travel program
Day 1: meeting at 12:30 PM in Gressoney - Staffal; meet with the Mountain Guide and a brief check of individual equipment. Ascent with the Monterosaski cable cars to the Punta Indren station, at an altitude of 3,275 meters. From here, in about an hour and a half, you climb to Capanna Gnifetti, located on a scenic rocky islet surrounded by the Lys Glacier. Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.
Day 2: departure by headlamp to tackle the beautiful Lys Glacier, ascending through an initial area with several crevasses, after which the route passes at the foot of Balmenhorn, where the impressive Cristo delle Vette statue stands at the summit. Continuing for about another hour, you reach Colle del Lys (4,255 m). A short descent leads into the vast glacial basin where the final climb starts towards Colle Gnifetti (4,452 m) and then to Capanna Margherita at an altitude of 4,554 meters. Descent along the same ascent route with short variations to find the best slopes, or potentially with a climb to Cristo delle Vette.
Is it for me?
Adventure
Freeride/ski touring
Commitment
Landscapes
Travel factor
Gastronomy
Culture and folklore
LEGEND: based on our personal experience, the evaluations give a subjective, measured and highly reliable value of the elements that make up the travel experience.
Other informations
Departure and return
Gressoney - Staffal
Duration
2 days / 1 night
Guaranteed departure
Minimum 4 partecipants
Documents
ID card, CAI membership card (if applicable)
The participation fee includes
- logistical organization
- accompaniment by a UIAGM-certified Mountain Guide
- half-board service at the Gnifetti hut
- Ski lifts
Price per person
from € 558
Deposit of € 140
Payment Methods and Cancellation PolicyDeparture
- 29 - 30 May 2027 Proceed with registration
Other destinations
Spaghetti Tour on Skis – 12 4,000-meter peaks in 5 days in the Monte Rosa Group
- 19 - 23 June 2026